13 - Back Foam 2

Supplying these instructions does not imply that the end user should do their own foam replacements, or that your foam replacement will work out properly. For many, this'll be a "no problem" situation. For some, you may paint yourself into a corner where your camera no longer works properly. There are no warrantees implied...... please use common sense. I suggest you read everything here before starting your installation.

I've done hundreds of these so I've settled into a certain comfortable order: Remove old mirror bumpers, remove hinge foam, slot foam. Clean all areas of old foam residue with denatured alcohol.. Do mirror test (#3 below), install thin or thick mirror bumpers, run a fine bead of rubber cement in slots. Install long bottom slot foam, then top slot foam. Do not foam over counter reset tab in top slot. Install hinge foam. I suggest NOT using "Goo Gone" as it is oily, will run everywhere and may cause oozing permanent damage to your camera. Once an oily substance is introduced into a camera, you will never be able to get it all out.

1: Dampen slot foam with a little denatured alcohol. Allow to set for a few minutes. I have specialized tools for this, you can try using a square toothpick. I use a chop stick with one end ground down in the shape of a flat screwdriver tip. After the bulk of the old foam is gone, clean slots, hinge area and mirror pad areas with lens tissue and denatured alcohol or other suitable cleaner. Do NOT use strong solvents like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) as they can melt plastic, remove paint and generally make a mess of your camera. Also the fumes can be very dangerous (some are carcinogenic). Even with denatured alcohol, you should always work in a well ventilated area, away from open flame. Allow to dry. Clean again if any old foam remains. Applying solvent may cause leatherette to curl up (more than it already is.)

2: Make sure old foam residue along edges of back cover and hinge area is completely cleaned off. Be VERY careful cleaning old foam away from the focus screen area. One false move can ruin the screen. You might want to remove the screen first (OM-10 or G screen are not meant to be easily removed) and then clean the residue. THEN, even though the screen is out, you now have to be careful not to mess up the prism area or meter needle.

3: Before installing the mirror pads, do this test: wind camera, lightly hold edge of mirror with finger. Fire shutter. Slowly allow mirror to rise. As mirror gets to within approx. 1/8" to 3/16" of where the mirror pads will be, the shutter should fire. Judge the distance between the mirror edge (when the shutter fired) and the metal frame where the foam will go. Choose either the thick or thin mirror pads from your set. Shutter MUST fire before mirror would touch the new foam pads.

4: The OM-1 through 4Ti foam kit, as supplied by Camtech has 8 pieces. The hinge and mirror pads are self stick. Self stick pieces are pre-cut to proper size and will not require trimming. My mirror pads are rectangular, not L shaped. The pieces for the slots should be glued in with a thin brown rubber cement like Pliobond or Hobsco's (then renamed "Walthers") "Goo"*. Note I am NOT talking about clear rubber cement as sold by art supply or craft stores. You should be able to find the correct glue in either a well stocked hobby or hardware stores. NEVER USE silicon rubber cement, epoxy, crazy glue (cyanoacrylate) or "white" rubber cement sold by art supply houses.

5: Use ONLY brown rubber cement. If you use the wrong cement, THAT will be harder to clean out than the old foam, and you may find that it's near impossible to get all that wrong glue out of the slots. If you use the wrong type of glue or even too much of the correct glue, the back of the camera may become permanently glued shut.
Glue should be applied with a fine applicator . I use an item called "Mikro Tips" (also sold by Walthers, item # 904-302.) Slot is shaped like a squared "U" when viewed from the end and glue should be on the bottom of the "U" only!

6: As you press the foam into the slot (start from right end) keep foam straight and feed it in to the slot as you go along until you get to within about 1/2" of the end. Trim with sharp scissors, and press into end of slot. Do not let foam twist in a spiral as it is pressed in.

7: SLOT FOAM: Many people have been successful by pressing the foam into the slots without any glue. This may be okay with this new foam. The slot pieces are oversize and will need to be trimmed to length after it is pressed into the slots. There are 3 slot pieces. 5 1/4", 4 1/4" and 1" (approx.) The smallest piece goes top right, between the counter reset tab and the hinge. Next largest goes from the left of the counter reset tab to the left (latch) side of the body. Longest piece goes in the bottom slot.

8: Along the top slot, about 1" in from the right end, there is a small metal tab. This tab moves in and out when the back cover is opened and closed, engaging the counter or releasing it, allowing it to reset to zero. Be very careful not to get glue on this tab, as doing so will, well.....you know. Your counter will not reset to "0" if gets gummed up with old foam or glue.

9: Don't try to reposition foam after it has touched the glue. Stretching foam slightly during installation may be unavoidable, but do not stretch too much.

10: You can get Walthers "Goo" and Micro tips at:

Product numbers are: Goo - 904-299, Mikro tip - 904-302 . Buy them through Walther's Terminal Hobby.

11: HINGE FOAM: Self stick IN ALL FOAM SETS. OM bodies (1 through 4Ti, OM-10, G, 20, F, 30, PC, 40), remove backing paper and apply.

12: MIRROR: Self stick. Mine are rectangular, not L shaped. Apply mirror pads after removing old foam and thoroughly cleaning residue from the area. Be careful to not scratch screen. Clean inside of camera as necessary.

It is expected that foam will be installed within 30 days of receipt. Up to that time I will replace any foam pieces that may be defective. After 30 days, defective foam will be replaced at customers expense.

Hobsco's "Goo" is no relation to "Goop" which seems to be carried by many hardware stores. Both "Goo" and "Pliobond" are available in small 1.125 oz. tubes from (some, many, most) local hobby shops. You can also buy it and Mikrotips from www.walthers.com and their retail arm, Terminal Hobby.

Thanks to all of you who have been submitting suggestions for this instruction sheet, especially Dan Lau.

Camtech is not responsible for any damage caused by the end user when he/she decides to do camera repairs at home. As an example, it is very easy to apply too much glue in the slots and end up gluing the back of the camera shut. Or, some may glue foam right over the tab that resets the frame counter.

John Hermanson, Owner